Sun above the Teton Range photo: Chad Henderson
I spent the week of August 8, 2011 hiking with my buddy Chad from Denver. He is a former resident of both Dubois and Lander, Wyoming and a former NOLS instructor. He has spent a lot of time hiking in the Wind River Range and knows the area quite well. I was excited to do this trip because this would be the first multi-day backpacking trip I had done with Chad. Chad deserves major respect for carrying ten extra pounds of camera gear through mosquito infested timber slopes above the Seven Lakes near Union Pass. I was also perversely excited about the possibility of seeing a bear. There is now an established group of grizzlies in the Wind River Range and black bears are of course present. The only time I ever saw a bear on a trail was on my first big long-distance backpacking trip in Tetons National Park when I was thirteen years old. I will disclose right up front that we did not see much wildlife at all – we surmised that most of the large mammal life was far up the mountain in summer grazing territory. We did see a group of three bighorn sheep staring down at us as we crossed the Continental Divide from Divide Lake to enjoy the view of Three Waters Mountain. Chad was, again, the perfect hiking mate for bear country with several years’ experience hiking in bear country from Wyoming to Alaska.
Chad and Zach above Granite Lake photo: Chad Henderson
Our hike began about three miles down the 4WD road from the Union Pass Road into the Seven Lakes area of the Northern Winds. Our drive was quickly halted by an overflown stream and we were forced to start the hike toward Granite Lake on foot from this point. Chad has provided pdf of the USGS quad which can be viewed here. He has even highlighted our in-out hike and the day hikes we took from our base camp. It does give some idea of the type of topography we had. This area is full of lakes so we had expected to find some fishermens’ trails between them. There were some very faded game trails leading to water, but full human tracks were extremely difficult to locate.
Chad in full mosquito garb pointing toward Deep Lake
We decided not to camp too close to any lake or marsh because of the legions of vicious mosquitoes this summer. We had not really planned for the swarms that would attack us during the hike itself. I was in Idaho last month doing trail work, so knew they would be bad in timbered areas. But I thought at this point they would have died down a little. If anything, they were more vicious. As winter gets closer they are becoming more desperate because of the short summer they have had. After an hour or so of hiking, Chad justifiably had a mosquitanxiety attack. We both needed to stop for water and snacks, but the relentless horde kept us pressing on through the timbered hillside above Granite Lake. We eventually climbed the ridge to the south of the lake and found a nice flat space above the trees to make a camp.
Snowfield water source and food hiding place
There was a convenient late season snowfield with a nice trickle of icewater near our campsite for a water source. The snowfield also formed a nice protective shelf where we hid our bear canister at night. There is something really satisfying about being able to drink perfectly fresh runoff from a snowfield trickle in the middle of August.
Day 2: Divide Lake and Three Waters Mountain
We spent our first day exploring the higher elevations in the area. We hiked first over the Continental Divide, then to Divide Lake. The lake still had plenty of remaining snowfields surrounding it on all sides. It appears that this year’s snow is actually sitting on the normal permanent fields. And has melted back only partially by the second week in August to reveal the multi-year permanent fields. I have never had the opportunity to see snow last so late into the season, and it really is incredible that by the second week in August it is still covering the actually permanent field;
As if it was not already obvious, there is a lot of water in this area and the Continental Divide splits these waters into three drainages. From here, the snow melt flows off of Three Waters Mountain to on of three river systems the Snake River, the Green/Colorado River or to the Missouri River. These systems are the major waters for the entire western half of the continent beyond the 100th meridian. This place is the origin for a significant volume of that water which will eventually be consumed by farmers, ranchers and urban households from this point to the Gulf of Mexico, Astoria, Oregon, and Baja California. The water flowing from our little snowfield near our campsite eventually flows toward the Teton Range to water our nation’s largest potato patch in southern Idaho. Three Waters Mountain is a long expanse of crags that when approached from the west looks like a long battlement of granite. The entire area is a series of streams and underground trickles leading to small lakes who let the waters out to larger lakes downhill. The larger lakes, like Granite, Divide, Deep, Cliff and Dollar lakes all have significant size with large marshes and willows surrounding them.
Bighorns on the cliff photo: Chad Henderson
We crossed and recrossed the Continental Divide on our way to higher altitude. At one point we came upon a group of three bighorn rams peering down on us from atop a cliff. Chad did not have the correct lense on his camera so we did not get a real good picture of them. Once they saw us, they quickly disappeared further up into the cliffs. Elusive creatures.
Pika in the rocks
We spent the rest of the afternoon moving further up the mountain. This is a pretty rugged area and there are no trails – or any evidence of human passing. We scrambled several cliffs and found a few small puddles of lakes. We also came upon a few pikas hiding in the rocks.Pikas are some of my favorite creatures. I am always amazed that the survive in such a harsh environment and are able to sustain themselves on the meager calories provided by the tundra.
Day 3: Finding the Henderson Campsite
Old Pictures to help find the route to Deep Lake photos: Chadd Henderson
One of Chad’s goals for the hike was to locate a campsite near Deep Lake that his parents had frequently used while living in Dubois, WY. Chad noted that the campsite does not comply with Leave No Trace rules but we can forgive it since LnT was not as developed a concept in the previous decades. There is a definite trace of the campsite remaining – a small mossgrown fire ring and a stack of wood. Chad estimates that his parents had last used the campsite at least twelve years ago. Even though there is an ORV trail that runs quite close to Granite Lake it does not appear that many people access the other lakes in the chain.
Chad at Deep Lake
As I noted previously we had an incredibly difficult time locating a social trail that fisherman would have used to go from lake to lake. It is therefore a bit surprising that there is a trace of the campsite at all. It also emphasizes the need to follow Leave No Trace rules if preservation of wilderness in a pristine state is the goal since the evidence of human passing lasts for years. People debate this concept of pristine-ness and the sharp division we make between urban and wild endlessly and I will not get into it in this particular post. Consider though, that here in Utah we value ancient evidence of human interaction with wilderness, but are much less pleased with the degradations that occurred in the wild in the last century with the arrival of Europeans. Are we ashamed of the way we interact with the wild? My short answer: yes, and we should be.
Chad and I had fun hiking to the campsite. His dad had marked its location on our map and we had some photos he had marked so that we would know which way to approach Deep Lake and locate the campsite. The campsite itself was quite easy to find on the far side of the lake and we spent a while enjoying the view of the lake. I regretted that I did not have any fishing gear because there were some nice looking trout in the water. There was a recent caddisfly hatch and a light dry caddisfly with a quick twitchy cast would have netted a couple of nice trout. Since this area is full of bears, I think I would have been very careful to engage in catch-and-release since the odor of cooking fish would be too much for any bear. After Chad took his video footage of the lake we hiked uphill to Cliff Lake where we had lunch. We found a small meadow full of white columbine and paintbrush. On our way up we had to pass through some fairly dense willows and we quickly changed our shouted ‘hey bear!’ warning to ‘hey moose!’ This is a proven backcountry technique. Bears only respond to ‘bear’ and moose to ‘moose.’ If you get this confused they get sensitive and spooked and they will charge.
Day 4: The Hike Out
We decided to take a slightly different route on our way out because we wanted to engage in some more archaeology and locate the exact spot of Chad’s Dad’s photos and take similar pictures. Sort of a then-and-now exercise. We took a slightly different route on the way out and we did locate a social or game trail for part of the way. This made our hike a bit faster. we followed the drainages uphill to get back the ORV trail. Along the way we searched for the exact rock with the view of the mountains behind granite lake that Chad’s dad had taken twenty years ago. I began to lose a bit of patience because I was getting hungry and I was just about ready to give up when we located the exact rock where Chad’s uncle had been photographed twenty years prior. It was interesting to note two things in the scene: 1. the growth and death of the trees and 2. the way the cured wood from a previous burn had not decayed at all. Here are the two pictures side by side:
Chad in his uncle's spot
See upper left for the same view
This was a really fun adventure in an area I had not previously explored. It was also the final adventure for ‘Summer of Outside.’ I am now into ‘Autumn of School.’ I have not been outside at all since this trip. I hope to get outside again real soon. I hope to get back to the canyons and deserts for the Autumn and Winter. There are certain of my hiking network that now live on this side of the 100th meridian so we expect to see you on an outside adventure very, very soon. You know who you are.
The bear expert's bear
I would also like to thank Chad for being a most excellent guide and bear expert on this trip. He was a ton of fun to have along and I hope to do another trip real soon.
Back to schoolwork…